Articles, Blog

How to Treat Dry OR Dehydrated Skin

September 2, 2019


So do you have DRY or DEHYDRATED skin?
Did you know there’s actually a DIFFERENCE between the two? So, you have
to know the appearance of what it looks like so that you can actually treat it,
and it’s actually two opposite ways. So if you’re experiencing dry, flaky, itchy,
scaly, sensitized skin, you may have dry or dehydrated skin. So as we’re getting
into the cold Winter months, and we start experiencing oscillating temperatures
between the outside cold air and the heater inside, which dries out the air as
well as dehydrates your skin, then your skin starts to experience more chapped,
flaky, itchy skin conditions. So dehydrated versus dry skin, it’s often a
misdiagnosed and misunderstood skin condition. Hi, my name is Christy and I’m
the owner of Go See Christy Beauty Boutique, and I have been treating people
with Acne, hyperpigmentation, helping to fight or slow down aging, as well as
other skin conditions like Eczema, Psoriasis, and a number of other skin
conditions for over 10 years in Southern California. And we’re going to talk about,
once again, dry versus dehydrated skin in the Winter time. So first we’re going
to talk about the top layer of the skin, most commonly known as the Epidermis, but
more specifically it’s known as the Stratum Corneum. Now the Stratum Corneum
actually plays a key role in the function, the health, and the maintenance
of your skin. So I want you to picture a brick wall. Okay? So a-, the individual
bricks, that’s going to represent the Corneocytes, or the dead skin cells. The
dead skin cells are actually a complex integration of salts, Amino Acids, Urea,
Lactic Acids. And this is referred to as the “Natural Moisturizing Factor” or N.M.F. So the mortar or the cement in between that holds those bricks together, that is
the Intercellular Cement, Intercellular Bond, or Intracellular Glue those are all
used interchangeably. That cement, or that mortar, is actually made up of Ceramides,
Fatty Acids, as well as Cholesterol. So the mortar, or basically, they essentially
organize themselves into layers of the skin, which creates a water-binding
material for the skin. Now, when there is a breakdown in that cement, so to speak,
or it starts to break down, then the skin loses its ability to hold on to its own
moisture. Now Ceramides are natural Lipids that holds the skin cells
together. Ceramides are actually vital for
moisturized skin, so when there is a breakdown in the Ceramides, then your
skin will become dry, irritated, and sensitized. Now I’ve actually mentioned
this in a lot of my other videos, but when your skin starts to lose its own
moisture, lose-, you know, loses its ability to hold on to its moisture, then
you start to experience T.E.W.L. and that’s called “Trans-Epidermal Water Loss”. This
can lead to inflammation, and with additional UV exposure, it could actually
lead to the breakdown of the Extracellular Matrix. Now without enough
moisture the natural desquamation process is interrupted. And if you
haven’t been watching my other videos, DESQUAMATION as, is the speed at which
the skin cell turns over, so skin cell turnover rate. So when the desquamation
rate is interrupted due to the lack of moisture, then the result of the
appearance of the skin just over-, overall looks more aged. You get dry, you get
flaky skin, dull-looking skin, more sensitized skin, a decrease in elasticity,
as well as just the overall appearance of it just looks more DULL. So
when you have a build-up of dead skin cells,
this not only traps the dirt and debris, it actually DECREASES your skin’s
ability to absorb any anti-aging ingredients, or Acne-fighting ingredients,
or any other products that you apply onto your face. So we’re gonna start with
MYTH #1 about dry and dehydrated skin. And Myth #1 is: “I have
dehydrated or dry skin because I don’t drink enough water.” And that’s not
exactly true! Yes, drinking water, how it actually helps
the skin is when you drink a lot of water, what immediately happens is about
twenty-to-thirty minutes later you’re going to have to go to the bathroom. Your
body will direct that water to the Excretory System first before it even
reaches the superficial layers of the skin. And that is what it’s designed to
survive, so it’s designed to flush out all of your toxins, all of your metabolic
waste. So how it helps the skin indirectly is that it flushes out all of
the waste so that you have better skin tone. So if you’ve ever seen someone who
is very sickly, they’re not eating a lot, they’re not moving around a lot, they’re
not drinking water a lot, they will have kind of this grayish-tinge undertone on
their skin. And so drinking water flushes out a lot of the waste before it even
reaches the top layers of the skin, so that is not necessarily true. So
dehydrated skin is actually the result more of EXTRINSIC factors more than
intrinsic factors. So dehydrated skin is actually the lack of water IN the skin
and a stripped Acid Mantle. So here are some of the extrinsic factors that cause
dehydrated skin. So one, first of all, is the lack of products that are on your
skin to help draw moisture into the skin, not using the products
correctly, as well as environmental factors, such as: heat, wind, dry air, so a
lot of it has to do with your environment. So the clinical appearance
of dehydrated skin is crinkly and flaky skin, but SHINY-looking skin. So it almost
has a cellophane look to the skin. This is especially obvious when a client has
oily skin but it’s also dehydrated. So what happens is the oil gets trapped
under that flaky and oily skin. Sometimes you’ll see it with clients who have been
using Retin-A or they’ve done an acid peel recently, they’ll have really shiny,
tight-looking skin but it’s also kind of crinkly. And that is a symptom of
dehydrated skin. So if you’ll notice that when someone does an acid peel, when
they’re using Retin-A, or Retinoids, or Glycolic Acid, or any type of product
that helps them exfoliate a lot faster, you are compromising the Lipid Barrier,
which then draws out the moisture, which then compromises the Ceramides, and so
that’s why you get that appearance of the dehydrated skin. So before I get to
the next myth, if this information is really helping you and you find it
educational, and it helps you further your knowledge in skincare, I would just
love it if you would hit the “LIKE” button because that would tell me that this is
the kind of information that you’re looking for. And if you haven’t already, to
please go ahead and hit the SUBSCRIBE button and the notification bell to get
notified of our newest videos. Okay, so on to MYTH #2. So Myth #2, I
hear a lot of times is: “Oh, I need a really heavy night cream,” or “I really
need a heavy cream because my skin is dry.” Dehydrated skin actually does NOT
need heavy cream, it needs WATER and not oil. And I will be explaining to you the
differences between the two. So heavier creams that especially say that it
is created for, or formulated for dry skin, what it does to dehydrated skin is
it actually sits on top of the dehydrated skin and it doesn’t add any
additional moisture, which is water, into the skin. So what this can do to
dehydrated skin that wants water is it can actually leave the skin feeling
greasy and if you feel the actual texture of your skin it doesn’t feel
like it has any moisture it just feels like it’s dry underneath and it’s just
kind of slippery. So that’s when you know you have dehydrated skin. So when your
skin is dehydrated, how it needs moisture is it needs it from WATER versus oil. And
oil is occlusive so we’re gonna talk about the differences between OCCLUSIVES
and HUMECTANTS. So for those of you out there who have oily skin or breakout
prone skin, I can already hear you guys saying, “I don’t need any moisturizers!” A
lot of my Acne-prone clients who come in here and I tell them your skin is
dehydrated, it’s producing too much oil, which then feeds the bacteria that
causes the Acne, they do NOT want to use moisturizers. And so what is happening is
that when you use Acne-fighting ingredients, that actually absorbs a lot
of the oil. So their skin starts to get dry, dehydrated, flaky, and the-, and then
that clears up the Acne. Well then, they think, “Okay, my face is finally clear. I’m
not gonna add any more moisturizers to the skin.” Well your skin needs
water-based moisturizers versus oil-based moisturizers. So the oil-based
moisturizers, they’re occlusive, they keep moisture in and keep the moisture from
evaporating. It does not add any moisture to the skin. And when your skin is
dehydrated, it needs water. So, for my Acne, breakout-prone clients out there, as well
as people who are listening to the video, is, is that you DO need a moisturizer, you
just need a WATER-based one, not an oil-based one. Because when your skin is
dehydrated, your skin will actually OVER- produce oil to basically slow down its
own moisture loss, and then it causes more Acne. So for all my Acne clients out
there and for people who are struggling with oily skin or breakout-prone skin,
this is why all of you shy away from moisturizers because you think that it
makes you break out. So yes, kind of, but not really.
So typically when you’re using a oil control or an Acne medicated products to control the Acne, it actually sucks up all the oil because bacteria feeds
off the Lipids or the oil on your skin. And so when you typically put on lotions,
creams, or oils, it makes you break out. Because you-, when you’re drying out your
skin, you’re over dehydrating your skin. So you need to add water-based or
binding humectants onto your skin, because guess what, you guys? If you
increase the moisture levels in your skin, you actually produce LESS oil, which
then results in LESS breakouts. So you want to look for that, and so
we’re going to be talking about the differences in just a moment.
So remember, oil causes breakouts in breakout-prone skin or oily-prone skin,
and water increases the hydration. And so when you hydrate your skin, you produce
less oil. Dehydrated skin, or dehydration to the skin actually causes more damage
to the skin then dry skin ever will. Now many people of you out there who
think that you have “sensitive skin”, you actually have sensi-TIZED skin. Your skin
is sensitized because your skin is dehydrated and it’s been dehydrated for
an extended period of time. So you’re you don’t have an Acid Mantle, it’s stripped,
and therefore you start experiencing the dry, flaky, itchy, red, chapped skin. Now
sensitization is actually one of the WORST results of dehydrated skin because
when you have dehydrated skin the inflammation signals the METALLOPROTEINASES, otherwise known as M.M.P’s, to break down the existing Collagen.
Which, what does that do? It actually causes premature aging. So believe it or
not, dehydrated skin actually INCREASES premature aging of the skin almost more
than anything else. So I keep talking about humectants, how they draw moisture
to the skin and in the skin, and occlusiv-, occlusives actually keep the
moisture in. I’m going to actually put links in the description below for specific
products so you can tell the difference between the two. So the first one we’re
gonna talk about are HUMECTANTS. These are some ingredients that you can look
for in your products, and the higher they are up in the ingredients list, the
better it is. So, the first one is Glycerin or Urea. So basically what that
does is usually they are vegetable-based humectants, and it draws moisture to the
skin, and in the skin, and it actually adds moisture in the skin cells as well.
The next one is Sodium P.C.A. So if you see this in your ingredients, it actually
holds up to 250 TIMES its weight in water. The next one is Lactic Acid. It is
a gentle exfoliating acid. It’s an A.H.A. but it is a HYDROPHILIC acid, which means
water loving. So it binds the moisture, or binds the water into your skin. It also
helps with exfoliating and treating hyperpigmentation. And the BIG GUNS for
humectants is of course Hyaluronic Acid or otherwise known as Sodium Hyaluronate,
and so that is also a moisture-binding or water-binding molecule and it can
hold up to a THOUSAND TIMES its weight in water. So it is a BIG-TIME humectant.
So it actually draws moisture from the air or from products, binds it into your
skin. Okay so the next category we’re going to talk about is OCCLUSIVES. So
what occlusives do is they actually lock in the moisture that the humectants have brought into your skin. So this is a situation where you can use the two hand-in-hand. So your skin always needs the humectants FIRST and then the occlusives
on top of that. So we’re going to talk about occlusives. So, OOPS! I wanted to
say that products that contain occlusives, the best way to use that is
right after you’ve gotten out of the shower, make sure that you do NOT
completely dry off. So, like, you can dry off your, you know, your crotch area and
your underarm area so that you don’t get yeast growth there, but you kind of just
want to pat yourself dry, make sure your skin is moist, and then from the steam
and the heat, your skin is moist, your pores are open, that’s when the best
time to put lotion or creams on because that’s going to seal in that water
that’s already on your skin. So that is the best way to use occlusives. So whether
it’s after shower, after bath oil or lotion. So once again, I do want to
emphasize this, because this gets mixed up with my clients and I see them all
the time, so if you’re only watching this video one time you may get confu-,
confused. So occlusive agents, they do NOT add
moisture to the skin. A lot of them don’t have, they have limited benefits, so they
basically lock the moisture in your skin. Now here are some occlusives that have
NO benefit to the skin, and it, so these are ones that people who are breakout-prone or oily skin should AVOID. And that is: Petroleum, otherwise known as
Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, and Lanolin. So Lanolin, some people are, they get
reactive to that. And Lanolin is actually basically sheep sebum. So here are three
occlusive agents that actually have some benefits to your skin. So the first one
is Sweet Almond Oil. It’s high in an anti-oxidant, which is Vitamin E. The second
one is Jojoba Oil. So Jojoba Oil is actually very close to the
human sebum, so it actually gets into your skin very easily. And it also
contains essential Fatty Acids, as well as some anti-oxidants. And the
other one is Shea Butter. So Shea Butter is extremely beneficial for dry skin
without feeling greasy. So what Shea Butter has is, it actually
has essential Fatty Acids, Triglycerides, and Vitamin A and E. And I actually, come
to think of it, there is another one, Niacinamide. So Niacinamide actually
reduces breakouts, it actually increases Ceramide and essential Fatty Acid
production or levels, as well as reduces T.E.W.L. So Niacinamide, in the retail arena,
it’s actually more touted as an anti-aging agent but it actually is an
occlusive agent as w-, as well, so it helps reduce moisture loss. Okay, so here
comes the PRO TIP. The PRO TIP is: So Hyaluronic Acid serum is not only a
humectant but it also acts as an occlusive agent. And it NEVER breaks you
out because, is, you, we make it in our own bodies. So Hyaluronic Acid, as mentioned
before, it can hold up to a THOUSAND TIMES its weight in water. So it draws in
moisture acting like a humectant, but molecularly
it’s larger, so it doesn’t really penetrate the skin, and it actually not
only quenches the thirst of the skin, so to speak, but it also acts as an
occlusive agent to seal in more moisture. So if you can use a Hyaluronic Acid
serum it would actually greatly make your skin, increases your skin’s ability
to hold in the moisture without breaking you out or making you feel greasy. So, the
correct way to use a Hyaluronic Acid serum is, and the more effective way to
increase the absorption rate in the skin is, after cleansing, you want to exfoliate,
and exfoliating only at night preferably, so you exfoliate, then on clean dry skin
you add the serum, most serums you do have to wait about 10 minutes to let it
penetrate but the great thing about Hyaluronic Acid is it is HYDROPHILIC, it
loves water, and it is going to be pH compatible to any of the products
that you use. So while your skin is still moist using the Hyaluronic Acid serum,
use a toner, a spray toner, spray your face with toner until it’s completely
saturated, and then again, while your face is still wet, you’re going to apply the
occlusive agent, which is your moisturizer, your lotion, or your cream. So
if you don’t really understand the order and the correct way to use the products,
then click the link up above and it will link you to the correct way to use the
products. So that is the one that you would need to watch after this one.

18 Comments

  • Reply Go See Christy January 5, 2019 at 12:07 am

    So, tell me! Which one do you have: Dry skin or dehydrated skin? If you've tried any of the products I mentioned, how did you like them?

  • Reply Sharin S April 5, 2019 at 5:46 am

    Thank you! Very informative! Where are you ?

  • Reply James Park April 6, 2019 at 8:11 am

    Hi Christy! My name is Stephanie (on my husband's account). I used Retin A (a super high grade) and started seeing all of my wrinkles worsen esp. on forehead and under eyes (new wrinkles & worsening of exsisting??) Is this reversible? Some people say it gets worse before it gets better, but I stopped all together. I didn't use it for that long. So it is reversible and should I try again with a lower percentage once my skin barrier is restored? Thank you so much for your videos!! You have beautiful skin!

  • Reply ammara mazhar April 9, 2019 at 6:24 pm

    I have never seen such an educated YouTuber
    ๐Ÿ˜ƒfirst time somebody described my skin in detail
    Much love from Pakistan

  • Reply Sherine Clarke April 12, 2019 at 10:09 am

    I started following Christy's advice…….cleanse…exfoliate….serum…..toner….and moisturizer. WOW! I can't believe the difference in my skinโ—๏ธ๐Ÿ˜ฑ I always believed that I had very dry skin, in fact my skin needed hydration.

    Thank you so much for sharing this information with us, Christy! It has made a world of difference for my skin๐Ÿ˜˜

  • Reply Yolanda Cherubin April 12, 2019 at 2:43 pm

    Hi Christy! I love your videos! I treat them like I'm taking a class. So I have watched this several times, I took notes and there is only one part that I am totally confused by. At the end, when you say the correct way to use Hyaluronic Acid serums, you cleanse, exfoliate (preferably at night), then you say on clean DRY skin you add the serum. You say most serums you have to wait 10 minutes to let them get absorbed. "While skin is still moist, use a spray toner and then again while your face is still wet your going to apply your occlusive agent which is your moisturizer, your lotions or your creams". So here is my confusion. I wash, exfoliate, dry my face, then apply my serums with hyaluronic Acids (I have several light serums that I use) then I wait for 10 min. So do I respray with a toner after 10 minutes and apply my moisturizers, lotions or creams?? Thank you in advance for answering my question! I love your channel and find you really informative and knowledgable. I've already learned so much from watching your channel!

  • Reply Sue Sue April 25, 2019 at 9:16 pm

    Just found your channel and loving it ๐Ÿ˜Š

  • Reply Sonnenschein Rosa April 26, 2019 at 11:35 am

    You are very beautiful

  • Reply M Ra May 1, 2019 at 9:02 pm

    I have dehydrated skin and Dermalogica active moist is the perfect solution, cos it hydrates without making the skin oily

  • Reply Danger Dawn May 2, 2019 at 1:02 am

    Wow, I'm 32 and I been doing stuff WRONG… I'm so happy for this video ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ thanks!๐Ÿ˜Ž

  • Reply Cantetinza17 May 3, 2019 at 5:56 pm

    Oh My goodness. A few days ago my face broke out! I've always had good skin. My skin is sensitive (has never been sensitive before), it's dry, it has pimples and I always get hyperpigmentation. I live in Chula Vista, CA. I have combination skin. So I guess my skin is dehydrated. Thanks for the education.

  • Reply Nk Yadav May 16, 2019 at 6:03 am

    My skin is dry dehydrated I can use this neauterogena hydro boost water gel cream xtra dry skin cream

  • Reply Rakhila Eila Ibildayeva May 26, 2019 at 5:29 am

    So humectants and occulisves cab ne put into one bottle and used effectively?

  • Reply mizzstar21 May 26, 2019 at 9:14 pm

    Thank you so much for this! Iโ€™ve been so confused as to why Iโ€™m applying my body butter, but certain areas just seem to never be โ€œmoisturizedโ€

  • Reply Juliii2NE1 May 27, 2019 at 7:48 am

    Need to show this video to my coworker.. im really into skincare and once i tried telling her that parts of my face were a bit dry and i probably needed to skim through my skincare products to see if im doing things correctly, she just tells me to drink water..
    love the vids thank you for the info!

  • Reply c c July 22, 2019 at 5:04 pm

    Thank u so much๐Ÿ˜

  • Reply Zakaria Harameyn July 24, 2019 at 7:52 pm

    Very good story ๐Ÿฅ€๐Ÿ‘โ™ฅ๏ธ

  • Reply Onrie Barbanida August 12, 2019 at 7:37 am

    Hi! Can I add rosehip oil after hyaluronic acid to seal in the moisture? ๐Ÿ˜Š

  • Reply Chicano Pride August 14, 2019 at 9:03 pm

    What are the best moisturizers for Dehydrated skin Christy? My skin is really dehydrated right now.

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